Speed & Distances (limits, stopping distance, fog, aquaplaning)

Want to practise right away? Start the quiz

This guide summarises the most important Dutch theory rules for speed & distances: speed limits, stopping distance, driving in fog, and aquaplaning (what causes it and what to do).

Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!

Key rules in 60 seconds

Aquaplaning: main risk factors

  • Speed is the biggest factor: higher speed = less time to drain water.
  • Tread depth: deeper grooves drain more water.
  • Tyre pressure: incorrect pressure worsens grip and drainage.
  • Wide tyres and road ruts increase risk.

If aquaplaning happens

  • Don’t brake hard.
  • Don’t steer sharply.
  • Gently ease off the accelerator and keep steering straight.
  • When grip returns, steer smoothly and rebuild speed gradually.

Fog lights (very tested)

  • Front fog lights: only when fog/snow/rain seriously reduces visibility.
  • Rear fog light: only in fog or snow when visibility is < 50 m.
  • Rear fog is not for normal rain — it dazzles drivers behind you.

Safe speed = stopping within what you can see

  • Signs show the maximum, but you must always drive so you can stop within your visible clear distance.
  • In fog or heavy rain, that often means driving well below the posted maximum.

Detailed guide

Aquaplaning: what it is

Aquaplaning happens when a thin layer of water forms between the tyres and the road, so the car “floats” and steering/braking becomes ineffective. It is most likely at higher speeds and where water collects (e.g., road ruts).

What increases the chance of aquaplaning

  • Speed: the faster you drive, the more water the tyre must drain per second.
  • Tread depth: deeper tread drains more water (winter tyres often have deeper grooves).
  • Tyre width: wide tyres “cut through” water less effectively and must drain more water.
  • Tyre pressure: incorrect pressure reduces contact and drainage performance.
  • Road ruts: water fills ruts; heavy vehicles often create them (commonly in the right lane).

What to do during aquaplaning (step-by-step)

  1. Stay calm and keep your steering straight.
  2. Ease off the accelerator gently (no sudden inputs).
  3. Do not brake hard and do not steer sharply.
  4. When the tyres touch the road again, steer smoothly and adjust speed.

Stopping distance (exam basics)

  • Stopping distance = reaction distance + braking distance.
  • Many theory calculations assume an average reaction time of ~1 second.
  • Braking distance grows sharply with speed and becomes much longer on wet/icy roads.

Following distance (headway)

  • Keep about a 2-second gap in normal conditions.
  • In rain, fog, snow or darkness: increase the gap to give yourself more time.
  • More distance = fewer harsh braking chain reactions = fewer traffic jams.

Fog: lights + speed choice

  • Rear fog light: only in fog or snow when visibility is < 50 m.
  • Front fog lights: allowed only when visibility is seriously restricted (don’t use them “just because it’s rainy”).
  • Driving speed: choose a speed that lets you stop within the distance you can see is clear. In very dense fog (e.g., visibility around 50 m), many courses teach driving no faster than about 50 km/h.

Maximum speed: always follow signs first

Rule of thumb: if multiple speed limits are shown, the lowest applicable limit is the one to follow.
  • Speed limits are shown by traffic signs (often with time plates) and sometimes by lane controls.
  • Typical theory defaults (unless signs indicate otherwise):
    • Built-up area: 50 km/h
    • Outside built-up area (non-motorway/non-autoweg): 80 km/h
    • Autoweg (expressway): usually 100 km/h
    • Motorway: often 100 km/h during the day (06:00–19:00) and higher limits may apply in the evening/night where indicated
  • Some vehicle types have their own maximum speeds (e.g., lorries/buses/towing) — always match the exam question to the vehicle category.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Driving “at the maximum” even when visibility is poor — safe speed must match conditions.
  • Rear fog light in rain or light mist (dazzles drivers behind).
  • Braking sharply during aquaplaning instead of easing off gently.
  • Ignoring tyre condition/pressure (tread depth matters hugely on wet roads).
  • Tailgating: not leaving enough time to react and stop.

FAQ

What is stopping distance?
The distance from noticing a need to stop until the vehicle is stationary: reaction + braking distance.
What is a typical reaction time used in theory?
Many calculations use about 1 second as a standard reaction time.
Why is speed critical for aquaplaning?
Higher speed increases the chance tyres can’t drain enough water, causing loss of grip.
When can you use rear fog lights?
Only in fog or heavy snowfall when visibility is less than 50 metres.

Relevant Dutch law (high-level references)

  • RVV 1990: general maximum speeds (Art. 20–22).
  • RVV 1990: fog light rules (Art. 34).
  • RVV 1990: speed limits shown by signs (and how they interact with defaults) (Art. 63/63b).
  • WVW 1994: adjust behaviour to avoid danger/hindrance (Art. 5).

Ready to practise? Start the quiz
Scroll to Top